India

It was during late December 2001 and January 2002 that I travelled to India, I was just going to ramble around but the Pakistan crisis that was occurring at the time led me to take part in an organised tour. I travelled with Intrepid which is a very ‘eco’ responsible Australian tour company. I am now even more entranced by this wonderful country. Our small group went to some unforgettable places and every day was so special and I learnt so much.

Chanderri is a very old town, totally off the tourist track. “I love the small twisted alleys. I stand still and can see cows, bikes, a sadu, heaps of small children, staring men, colourful saris, small open street stalls, a women winnowing wheat on a cart, women wearing the modern salwar kameez, a large glowing coal-filled iron cooling on a step, a silk shop, several sweet shops, spice shops, gold workers bashing and annealing, the cobbled street, a colourful awning, low whitewashed dwellings as they were a thousand years ago. I bend down and look through a window and see a huge loom threaded with silk and hear the ‘clack’ as the shuttles fly, I am aware of the smell of India, a hustle and bustle, friendly smiles. Chanderri is a small town with 50% Hindi, 7% Jain and the remainder peoples of Muslim faith and together they all live in harmony. We were constantly reassured of their wish for peace.”(my journal)

I was captured by Varanassi, which lies on the River Ganges. One of the holiest places in India and also one of the oldest living cities in the world. Our Hotel was by the River and the Bells from the Ghats would wake us each morning. We spent the majority of our time on or by the River. “At 5.30 pm we walked to the Ghats for the Siva evening ceremony. The music was hauntingly beautiful, a singer and a drummer. Five young Brahman Priests stood on platforms under strong lights by the River and to the sounds of the chanting and the bells and the banging of drum began a religious ritual that lasted 45 minutes. The visual imagery of burgundy robes, marigold flowers, burning candles and the smell of incenses and burning oil was such an assault on your senses. We sat mesmerised.”… “At dawn the ghats were bathed in a magical light and the pilgrims perform puja to the rising sun”… “In the evening we sat in a boat and with the sounds of a haunting sitar we placed small leaved baskets with marigolds and a burning candle on the river and wished for happiness and peace. As we floated 120 away, small flames trailed out behind like a magical path of hope.” (my journal)

Agra again held me enthralled and unlike my first trip to India I was not fettered by being in a large group and wandered all of the towns I visited, at will. The Taj is still amazing. The mysticism of India makes the sun setting and rising over such holy places a visual and enchanted feast.

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